Thermowell Damper

[Gasseous]

Help!!

Is the damper supposed to be open or closed when the gas to the thermowell is turned off? I have set mine up per the owners manual and it seems to close when the gas is on and open when the gas is off. Is this the correct operation? What am I doing wrong?

Gasseous

[lowracer]

Fire requires oxygen. Damper should be open while gas is on, closed when gas is off. Somehow you got it hooked up backwards?

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ May 29, 2006 10:26 AM: Message edited by: lowracer ]</font>

[Gasseous]

Mark,

I don't see how it could be backwards because it looks just like the drawing in the manual. However, I push down the thumb key, turn the valve and the darn thing shuts.... I turn it the otherway until the thumb key releases... and it opens up... I don't see how....

Gasseous

[Gasseous]

Mark,

I am not an Aggie but I did go to A&M.... Alabama A&M... LOL!! I proceeded with firing up Addie and was both happy and sad... the safety worked fine... yea!! no leaks... except the darned flame is not hitting the thermocouple so that will take some adjustment.... The pilot for the thermowell works well and the thermowell comes on and goes off without a hitch... the gas valve to the thermowell is leaking and I don't know if it is just loose or what? The pilot for the burners is lit and adjust but the burners will not come on without a match.... Close but no cigar... My goal was to have Addie up and running by today... I had her connected, took a few photo's and then disconnected her and put in the old range... Oh well, maybe Stoveman can give me some pointers on where I went wrong... LOL!! I may just disconnect the damper and use it as it is.... once I get the valve to stop leaking that is....

Gasseous

[stoveman]

Hey Gassy, Only place I can see that you may have gone wrong on the tharmowell damper is the Thermowell Front Lever. It's near the front of the stove in figure 12. See how it is a trangle and the pivot point is towards the rear of the stove. If you were to install this lever backwards with the pivot point towards the front of the stove, the damper would operate backwards like yours. On the top burner lighting, do your flash tubes have the little brass block at the burner end and are they clear of any trash? Sometimes we adjust our burner frames too perfect and have to "soften" the flame a little to get them to flash light from the pilot. Try giving them a little less air. Close the air shutter a little.

[Gasseous]

Sam,

You hit the pivot right on the head... it is pointing toward the front of the stove.... problem is I can't figure out how to change it... It is like the rod from the valve is too long and this is the only direction that the pivot will fit? My biggest concern is the leaky valve on the thermowell... It seems to quit leaking if I twist the valve on/off a few times... however, when I stopped and went back to it, the leak was back... I am going to attempt to tighten the valve nut with a pair of small channel lock pliers... (I sprayed soapy water on the joint and that is where it appears to be leaking)... I didn't even attempt to adjust anything else because of the leak.... I simply pushed it to the side and hooked up the other range... LOL!!

Gasseous

[stoveman]

Gassy, Tightening the valve nut probably won't help. The valve nut does not provide the seal. It's the valve grease inside and the spring that holds the core tight in the valve body that provides the seal. Take a look at figure 13. I am assumeing that you regreased the valves, if not new grease is likely to solve the leak. If this doesn't, you may be in need of a new/used valve. Could you have gotten the valve cores and the valve bodies mixed up?. They must be reinstalled in their original body. If you find on closer examination that the leak is at the tubing nut, loosen the tubing nut, put a little valve grease on the gland/ferrule. This will help the ferrule seat better in the end of the body.

[Gasseous]

Sam,

Yes I regreased the valves. I took them apart 1 at a time and cleaned them, then put them together. I even put them in individual bags so I could put them back into the same spot on the manifold. I went back in this afternoon and found that the valve nut was loose. I tightened it at least a 1/4 turn so am hopeful that I have it fixed. I am thinking about hooking up my air compressor and going at it with soapy water.... I should be alright as long as I don't open up the valve to the oven... eh?

As for the damper... that is another problem...
Gasseous

[stoveman]

10-4 on the oven valve. It doesn't take much pressure to ruin the thermostat. It operates on less than 1/2 psi. Any more and it's damaged. I wouldn't use more that about 5 or 10 psi on the aircompressor. Afer all, the normal gas pressure is very little and if you put too much pressure on the fittings and valves, you will be trying to fix leaks that wouldn't show up under normal conditions.

[lowracer]

Well, I may be the wrong person to talk to about this, my model C does not have a thermowell damper. Oven damper but not thermowell.

You sure you aint a Aggie? They been known to hook stuff up backwards... [img]cool.gif[/img]